Villages / Zekhnova

Village Zekhnova

Arkhangelsk Oblast
since September 24, 2020, 47 points
Brief History
The village of Zekhnova is recognized as one of the most ancient settlements in Kenozero. According to local legend, it was founded in the sixteenth century by a pioneer named Zekh, considered one of the first Christians in the area. Zekhnova's uniqueness lies in its morphological stability, as the village's layout has remained largely unchanged for nearly five hundred years. It is the only settlement in the Russian North that has preserved the sixteenth-century topographic logic, with houses traditionally facing the lake and the local chapel. In September 2020, the village was officially included among the Most Beautiful Villages of Russia, becoming the smallest member of the Association (not by significance).

Sights and Nature
The settlement is picturesquely located on the southern shore of Lake Kenozero in Glukhaya Lakhta Bay. The main architectural and sacred landmark is the Chapel of St. John the Theologian, dating back to the eighteenth century. It stands on the summit of Mount Buy and is the only chapel with a gallery on consoles in the Arkhangelsk region. The church's interior is exceptionally valuable thanks to its fully preserved twelve-sided celestial dome, considered the oldest in the region. These painted ceilings reflect the cosmological beliefs of northern peasants about the celestial sphere. The village's natural environment is designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and boasts rich biodiversity. In the surrounding forests and along the coast, you can encounter rare flora species, such as the lady's slipper orchid, and majestic birds of prey, such as the white-tailed eagle.

Accommodation
The village's accommodations are intimate and focused on preserving the authenticity of the cultural environment. The main form of accommodation is rural guesthouses, integrated into the traditional architecture. Travelers can stay in the Abramov house or enjoy the hospitality of Lyubov and Yuri's private home. This accommodation format allows guests to fully immerse themselves in village life while enjoying essential amenities, including equipped kitchens and cozy living rooms. For those seeking ultimate privacy, more basic accommodations are available, requiring personal camping gear. Accommodation is also available in the village of Vershinino.

Food
The culinary program in Zekhnova is based on locally available organic resources and Pomor culinary traditions. Since there are no commercial cafes in the village itself, meals are provided by the guesthouse hosts. Guests can sample dishes cooked in a Russian oven, including the famous northern pies, shangi, and kalitki. The menu often includes fresh lake fish, wild mushrooms, and berries picked in the surrounding forests. Particularly noteworthy are the aromatic herbal teas made from local herbs, served during traditional village tea parties. It is recommended to purchase basic groceries in advance in larger towns, such as the village of Vershinino.

Museums
The village is effectively an open-air museum, with its layout and residential buildings boasting historical value. An important industrial heritage site is the Zekhnovskaya flour mill. This working watermill, restored on its ancient foundations, now functions as an interactive exhibit. Visitors can learn about the mechanics of the water drive and witness the traditional grain milling process. Additionally, excursions take guests to craft centers in neighboring settlements, where collections of traditional utensils, birch bark artifacts, and blacksmithing items are on display.

Calendar of Events
The village's eventful rhythm is closely intertwined with the folk calendar and environmental initiatives of the national park. The main celebrations are associated with the feast days of St. John the Theologian. This spring festival, popularly known as Little Theologian, is celebrated on May 21st and is accompanied by services for the blessing of the waters. The autumn patronal feast of Bolshoy Bogoslov (Big Theologian) takes place on October 9th and marks the end of fieldwork. In July, the village of Zekhnova often becomes the focal point of the Kenozero Regatta, which brings together sailing enthusiasts on traditional wooden boats. Around August 20th, residents and visitors can take part in the large-scale Assumption Fair in the park's administrative center.

Getting there
The journey to Zekhnova is a multi-stage process requiring the use of various modes of transportation. The first stage is a train ride from Moscow or Arkhangelsk to the Nyandoma or Plesetskaya railway stations. Next, take a regular bus or taxi to the village of Vershinino, which is the logistics hub of the Plesetsk sector of the park. The final leg of the journey is usually by water. Travelers can take the national park's boat transfer or arrange for local boatmen to cross the waters of Lake Kenozero.

Useful Information
To visit the national park, you must obtain a special permit, which is subject to a fee for most travelers. Zekhnova has the most reliable mobile coverage with Megafon, but signal can be weak in low-lying areas. It's important to note that there are no ATMs in the village, so all payments for accommodation and additional services are made in cash. For comfortable movement along ecological trails and during boat trips, it is recommended to have closed waterproof shoes, warm clothing, and reliable insect repellent.

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